Japanese Shogun Period came alive as we visited Osaka Castle, a mere fifteen minutes by train outside Osaka. It was a short walk through Osaka Castle Park to the castle itself. What a joy to see such an imposing structure beyond the wide moat and deep stone wall. Its golden ormolu, that included the silhouettes of elephants,  was resplendent against the pristine white facade, black trim, and verdigris tiled pagoda-shaped roof. Osaka Castle is in perfect condition and has been totally modernized as a museum after having been destroyed by lightning in 1665, then again destroyed by a blaze just before its planned restoration during the Meiji Period (1868-1912).  The castle was rebuilt in 1931, used by the Japanese army, then was restored again after WW II bombing raids destroyed the buildings and grounds surrounding the castle. Modern engineering has helped create a great exhibition site, its clean and complex stairway system funnels traffic seemlessly through the exhibition halls. Henry and I found it enjoyable to learn about the powerful political battles that happened during the Edo Period Shogunate. The exhibition focused on a decisive moment in Japan’s history, the Summer War in Osaka that took place in 1616. At the time of this battle, Hideyoshi Toyotomi was Shogun. He had been born to a poor farmer, spent his youth wandering the countryside learning all sorts of trades (including theft), became a loyal warrior to Shogun Nobunaga Oda; and, because he was so smart and cleaver, took charge after Oda’s death. In the museum’s brilliant diorama using Japanese Noh theater, Kabuki and Burnraku-styled sets, various scenes from Hideyoshi’s life were portrayed with video sequences of actors in period costume, superimposed upon these theatrical settings. For example, One such scene depicted a problem Nobunaga Oda was having making repairs on buildings that were on the site of a temple that had been burned. As the script recounts, no one made any progress getting the work done. Hideyoshi took charge, divided the construction workers into teams, pitted them against one another competitively, and successfully completed the project within three days, celebrating with a large tea party. Hideyoshi Toyotomi was the honored guest at a state dinner, hosted by the emperor, at which the feudal Lords were required to pledge allegiance to Hideyoshi. Having none of his own, he adopted 30 children, When Hideyoshi did sire a son with his concubine, he then killed his wife and all 30 of his adopted children to make certain there was no power struggle against his true heir. He also sent his men out to measure and record the size and quality of farmland with the intention of setting up a land tax with the farmers. He also required the farmers to turn in their weapons and to give him gifts of wood. With these, he built an enormous temple, using the metal from their weapons as medallions on the doors. Hideyori Toyotama was the builder of Osaka Castle, completed in 1598 just before his death. Before his death, he asked his nobles to pledge their loyalty to his son, Hideyori, who inherited the castle.  In 1600, a rival Shogun, Iseyasu Tokugawa, defeated Hideyori’s armies at the Battle of Sekigahara, setting up his own bakufu in Edo. Iseyasu Tokugawa, the victor, succeeded in unifying Japan; and, in 1603 was appointed Seii-tai-shogun, or “Generalissimo” by the emperor. In 1614, Tokugawa laid siege on Osaka Castle by filling in the moat. That winter, Hideyori had his army begin digging out the moat, which enraged Tokagawa.   Tokugawa Shogun, with 155,000 men, attacked, and within  three days, overcame Osaka Castle. It was the last decisive battle between the Toyotama and Tokugawa families. On that fateful day in 1615, Hideyori’s army numbered only 55,000 men, just one-third the size of his opponent.  In the end, Iseyasu Tokugawa claimed his power. The Toyotama family line ended with the suicide of Hideyori Toyotama.

PHOTOS: Left Column: 1. Diorama of the Summer War of Osaka. 2. Model, Osaka Castle, built by Hideyori Toyotama, c. 1598. Middle: 1. & 2. Two battle scenes illustrated in the diorama.  Model of Osaka Castle depicting ther verticality of the castle compound and the moat that surrounded it. Right Column: 1. View of Osaka Castle with its gilt-work architectural details. 2. Edo Period warrior’s battle dress c. early 17th century.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                            BACK TO MAP PAGE