The grounds of Carcosa Seri Negara, on four acres of tropical gardens, sit above the expansive Lake Gardens near the center of Kuala Lumpur. Constructed between 1896 and 1904 as the official residence of Frank Swettenham, the first resident-general of British Colonial Malaya, the property contains two colonial styled houses comprised of 13 guest suites, all with living rooms and dressing rooms; some, with private balconies and dining rooms. The ambience here is old world British, with rooms named to represent each state of Malaysia.  The name “Carcosa” is stylized from the Italian cara cosa, meaning “dear place”. A second residence on the property, where Henry and I stayed, is named Seri Negara or Malaysian for “beautiful country”. It was formerly known as the “King’s House” and was the guest house for illustrious guests of the Malay Federation. These two houses served the British representative to the Malay states between 1904 and 1941, when the Japanese invaded. During World War II, it was used by the Japanese as the senior officer’s army mess until August, 1945, when the mansions were used by the British army for their senior officers, until a Chief Secretary was appointed. In 1957, with the independence of Malayasia, Carcosa became the official residence of the British High Commissioner, with Seri Negara returning to its role as guest house to important visitors. One of those visitors, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, resided at Carcosa during the meeting of commonwealth nations in 1987.  Upon our arrival, the staff at Carcosa Seri Negara graciously welcomed us as their guest. Our butler, Hadi, drove us to shop for a guide book, arranged a table for us for High Tea, and delivered us later to the home of our friend, Archana Marshall. We felt as indulged as royalty by the privacy, the attentive service, and the efficient housekeeping staff. Our morning breakfasts on the veranda was accompanied by the song of birds and the whirring of the ceiling fans, a marvelous way to start the day. Lunch after the cooling downpour of a heavy tropical rain shower ushered in a languid mood after a morning tour in the thick tropical heat. We felt very much “at home” in this lap of old world luxury.

PHOTOS: Left Column: 1. The name plate for our room, Seri Sarawak. 2. Henry, being assisted by Hadi, our butler, after our quick trip to a local bookstore. 3. Henry, receiving his Chinese New Year good luck tangerine from the mouth of a dancing lion at Carcosa. 4. The male and female  Chinese New Year dancing lions performing their good luck ritual at Carcosa. One of the percussionist troupe which accompanied their performance is in the background.  Center, Top: Seri Negara as viewed from the entrance gate. Center, Bottom: Henry enjoying his coffee on the veranda. Right Column:  1. A view of the grounds looking toward Seri Negara. 2. A view of our suite, Seri Sarawak. 3. The Chinese New Year ceremonial lions during their performance at Carcosa: male (left) and female (right). 4. The whole troupe, dancers and percussionists, after the performance at Carcosa.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                      BACK TO MAP  PAGE