Our friend, David Hinnawi, has quite the adventuresome spirit. When the three of us (Henry, David and I) were at the Step Pyramid, the Bent Pyramid was visible in the distance. David was not only willing, but insisted on driving to this site, which was farther away from us than it looked. Pyramids seem to always appeared closer than they looked from a distance,  concealing  the fact that some are quite large. Size is deceiving because pyramids were built in a variety of sizes. A tiny pyramid on the horizon, could just be small, or it could be gigantic!   The question is always, how close is it? So, from Saqqqara, David turned his trusty Volkswagen 4WD in the direction of Dahshur. The trek there was fascinating to Henry and me because it exposed us to the interior villages and farm lands. We were able to see the landscape and the lifestyle of the native peoples who lived on the lands bordering the Nile. The roads are asphalt for the most part, although the tires of David’s vehicle kicked up some dust on unpaved roads, while looking for the proper, yet unmarked, route. Had David not spoken Arabic, we would have been lost! Out in the middle of this fertile, green farmland, David spotted a vendor in turban and light blue galabeya, tending the coals of the oven on his cart. Out of the car we jumped to scurry over to this oven-on-wheels to find out what was cookin’! As soon as David discovered that baked sweet potatoes were on the fire, we ordered three helpings. David had previously treated us to lunch and dinner in fine restaurants in Cairo. Henry had insisted that he buy lunch. So, David had the last laugh when he let ME pay for it ... all of 5 Egyptian Pounds ... about $1 US. Actually, the cost was 2 Egyptian Pounds or 40 cents US. Can you imagine?  I couldn’t ask for change! Our normal policy: “don’t eat street food” flew out the window. However, we didn’t eat the skin on these light yellow potatoes. The yams were hot, sweet, and delicious! As we munched away, we were surrounded by curious children. They wanted to touch my hair! I couldn’t figure it out as they said something that sounded like “see” ... next time, I’ll let them run their fingers through my locks!

PHOTOS: All scenes of the rural lands around the fertile Nile River.

Center, Top: Father and sons at the end of a day in the field. Center, Bottom: David, left inspecting the oven and ordering lunch for the three of us.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                           BACK TO MAP PAGE