alsatian cuisine
Strasbourg
Alsace, northern france
europe
december 17-22, 2011

alsatian cuisine
Strasbourg
Alsace, northern france
europe
december 17-22, 2011
The region of Alsace-Lorraine has a cuisine unique to France and influenced historically by its shifting border that included Germany. The region can claim many dishes that originated here, including foie gras. On the top of the list of specialities is Charcuterie and Knack, a large variety of cold meats that include ham, blood sausages, all sorts of smoked meat and liver sausage, and knackwurst (also known as frankfurter). Far from the hot-dog food item known in America, this gastronomical dish dates from 1869. The recipe calls for equal parts of lean pork shoulder and pork fat flavored with nutmeg, salt and pepper, then wrapped in a casing made from lamb’s intestines which had been smoked for a few days. The pale pink product produced a crackling sound when bitten into, thereby giving it the name Knack. Today, beef, pork and an emulsion of pork fat are used. Pork is used in many of the dishes in Alsace. Another regional dish is Sauerkraut, spelled sûrkrût in Alsace, is made with a specific variety of cabbage that is harvested from September to the end of November. Only the heart of the plant is used to shred finely into the “cheveux d’ange” or angels’ hair. The cabbage is fermented with salt and spices in large metal barrels for three to four weeks. During this time, the cabbage loses water and gains acidity while remaining as white as possible. Served after three weeks of fermentation, the product keeps for several months and is used in dishes such as Charcoute garni, quiche, fish, or is pickled; and, it is also served with Riesling poured over it. In the 16th century, choucroute was a dish for Sunday, best served with sausage or a piece of pork rib. Alsace produces 70% of all French sauerkraut, honored with the IGP label for Indication Géographique Protégée. The first product of the year in the Alsace region is White Asparagus, the same plant as the green asparagus, but simply deprived of light. The spears are thicker, more tender, and have a slightly sweet or nutty flavor. The season for Alsatian white asparagus begins in mid-April and ends in mid-June. A delicious dish, popular in tourist restaurants in Strasbourg, was Flammekuche, or Pizza Alsatian-style. Instead of the typical round pizza pie known in America, this regional version is made in a rectangular shape. What began as a typical farmer’s meal has now become very popular and is served topped with crème fraîche, thinly sliced raw onions, and lardons or small strips of bacon. Quiche, another meal-in-a-crust is a staple of the region, the most famous being Quiche Lorraine or Zewelwai quiche, a tart made with a filling of onions, eggs, and cream. Baeckeoffe is a casserole dish that was traditionally known as “Monday’s dish”. Prepared on Sunday evening, it would be baked in a well-sealed terracotta casserole on Monday morning, laundry day, enabling the house wives to do their laundry non-stop until lunch time. This was a form of pork and potato stew, with additions of beef, mutton or even goose. The meat would be marinated overnight in dry Alsatian white wine, then simmered on a bed of potatoes, onions and carrots. The rivers in the region produce a variety of Fish, inspiring such succulent dishes as Trout au bleu, Pike-perch with Riesling, or Fish Stew with Riesling, just to name a few. And, the Riesling, a speciality of the vineyards in the region is also used in local recipes for “Coq au Reisling” contrary to the French speciality Coq au Vin, which requires red wine instead. Beer is consumed at meals as well, with many traditional brewers such as Kronenbourg or Bière de Garde. Typical Alsatian Breads include spelt, poppy seed, Molzer bread, and Subrôt or penny bread. Regional bakeries offer a large variety of breads including cumin seed, walnut, rye, sesame seed, raisin, bacon, and even olive bread. Last but not least, Alsatian cuisine includes tempting Desserts: Apfelküeche or Apple tart a l’alsacienne, Quetsch plum tart (made with a special elongated plum that grows in the region) Cheese cake, Streusel, Rhubarb tart, Christmas biscuits (Bredalas) and Kügelhopf, a yeast-risen cake (half bread / half cake) similar to brioche or panettone, thought to have been brought to France from Austria by Marie Antoinette ... let them eat cake-bread?
PHOTOS: Details from the restaurant Lohkäs in Stasbourg, specializing in traditional Alsatian Cuisine. Bottom Right: The Baeckeoffe for two persons ... baked and served in the traditional terracotta casserole.
Food & Wine