auerbachs keller

saxony, eastern Germany

europe

november 22-28, 2011

 
 
 

Auerbachs Keller, or (in English) Auerbach’s Celler is one of Leipzig’s oldest and most famous restaurants, located in the historic district below the Mädlerpassage, a shopping arcade near the market. Dating from the early 1400’s, it was first noted in historical records dated 1438. The name of the wine bar reflects the nickname of its original owner, Dr. Heinrich Stromer, familiarly called Dr. Auerbach after the place of his birth, the town of Auerbach. He was the personal physician of the Prince-Elector of Saxony, who gave him the right to establish the wine bar in gratitude for his faithful services.  It was beautifully described by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s play, Faust I, as the first place Mephistopheles takes Faust on their travels. Goethe considered Auerbachs Keller to be his favorite wine bar as he often visited it as a student in Leipzig between 1765 and 1768. He would have been familiar with the legend of Faust from his youth, as a puppet show was frequently performed in the local street fairs. Also, there were two paintings on wood in the bar, dating from 1625, both familiar to Goethe. One of them depicted the magician and astrologer Faust drinking with students. The other showed him riding out the door of the cellar on a wine barrel. According to legend, the alchemist, Dr. Johann Georg Faust once rode a wine barrel from the cellar to the street at Auierbach’s Celler, something that he could only have accomplished with the help of the devil.  Since Henry and I were visiting Leipzig during the season of  Weihnachtmarkt (Christmas Market) days, the restaurant was decked with Christmas cheer and the streets nearby were filled with stalls selling Christmas decorations, gifts and food. The atmosphere here and in the streets was filled with wonderful fun!


PHOTOS:  Top Left:  Detail of a mural, a scene from Goethe’s Faust. decorating the walls of Auerbach’s Keller.    Bottom Left: An actor-performer in period costume posed for this photo in the restaurant. Middle:  Sign for Auerbach’s Keller in Old German style. Top Right: In the grand lobby of the building that houses Auerbachs Keller, stand  two bronze sculptures: one, depicting Mephistopheles and Faust, and the other a scene from Goethe’s Faust. Here, Mephisto has cast a spell, the sculpture entitled Bewitched Students. The sculptures were cast by Traugott Noack (1865-1941) at his Bronze Fine Art Foundry Noack, established in 1899. Bottom Right: A view of the restaurant, Auerbachs Keller, bedecked with Christmas decorations.


JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                   BACK TO MAP  PAGE  
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Auerbach’s Celler