When Henry and I arrived on the island of Nisyros from the town of Kos on the island of Kos, we had sailed this short distance on a big slow, lumbering boat. As we arrived in the harbor, there was no activity other than a few 3-wheeler flatbed trucks to collect shipments of produce. There were no taxis, but there was a café. Henry and I had done our homework and had a list of the island’s hotels, half expecting that the usual “welcome party” of the Nisyros’ hoteliers who normally meet each boat with signs offering rooms for rent. However, no one appeared! We quickly decided that the only way to manage finding a place to stay was to walk around the town, exploring possibilities. The owner of the café allowed us to leave our bags outdoors in plain sight, supposedly under his watchful eye. Off we went to Madraki, along the coast just meters from the harbor itself. We found the big hotel in town but didn’t like its location, its view, or its ambience. Though it had a pool, there was no view of the Aegean. Walking along, we had noticed cheerful, hand-painted signs advertising the Hotel Romantzo promising “cheap rooms and studios for rent with a view of the sea”. As it turned out, this was the closest hotel to the harbor; so Henry and I ventured uphill dragging our bags on wheels, meant for that purpose. We were thrilled to find the charming hotel with simple, comfortable rooms. Room 21, in the center of a row of blue-shuttered rooms along a common terrace, was exactly what we had in mind. The accommodations included a simple shower, dark stained double bed, desk and bench, reed-seated chair, a refrigerator, and a serviceable armoire with mirrored doors. The sheets and pillows were monogrammed with the hotel’s name, a rather elegant touch, as were the peach-colored terry cloth towels. At last we had found a quiet island without night life -- and the perfect place to relax for three weeks. During our stay, many guests came and went, confirming our suspicions that this unassuming and sweetly-managed hotel not only attracted repeat customers, but very nice people as well. The hotel, the first commercial building on the island, was opened in 1976, 35 years ago. It is now managed under the kind and watchful eye of the family’s son, Giorgios Mouras, who could not be a nicer person!

Contact information: Hotel Romantzo. Website: www.nisyros-romantzo.gr

PHOTOS: Top Two: 1. View of the Aegean from the upper terrace of the Hotel Romantzo. 2. The lower terrace where breakfast is served. Morning sunlight is filtered through this bamboo awning, and the comfortable rattan chairs are good for reading as well as eating yogurt with honey or drinking Greek-styled coffee in the form of a frappé. Middle Three: 1. Henry, descending the stairway leading to the upper terrace. 2. A view through the balustrades overlooking the Greek Orthodox Church and the Aegean sea beyond. 3. A view from the upper terrace.  Bottom Three: 1. A view of the second level, the bachelor quarters and terrace are in the foreground. 2. A view of the lower terrace at just above street level. The Reception area and seating for breakfast or coffee are on this level of the hotel with 25 rooms. 3. A view of the upper terrace overlooking the Aegean Sea and the harbor of Nisyros at Madraki.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                        BACK TO MAP  PAGE