Visiting a cave dwelling in the Dadès Valley was fascinating, primarily because these hearty Berbers live in places so secret and camouflaged, that they do not exist to the uninitiated eye. We drove through the beautiful valley of low rolling hills and stone, where Aziz parked the 4WD and lead us to the home of a Berber woman and her family. There were three cave openings in the compound, the first consisting of a kitchen and family room. A small earthen oven was there, as were a rooster and two hens. The Berber woman sat on a blanket preparing tea as an gesture of her hospitality. A five year old boy played and greeted us by leading his friend, Aziz into the kitchen cave to see his mother. There was also a daughter, about 13 years old, who came out of the bedroom cave where she had been napping. The last member of the family on the property was a tiny kid goat, sleeping in the sun and recovering from the trauma of his birth. The rest of the family, the father and older brothers were out shepherding their flock of goats and sheep. They would return with the animals and place them in the third of the three caves, one with a stone wall as protection during the night. This was a rough environment, but the night skies littered with so many stars must have been dazzling. We didn’t stay long enought to see the velvety night sky, but returned to our riyad after enjoying more of the beauty of the Valley of the Roses.

PHOTOS: Left Column: 1. The environment of the cave dwelling, tucked in the Dadès Valley. The stacked stones mark the dwellings. 2. Young son waggling his finger at Azia, a gesture comical, yet common to young Berber boys. 3. A kid goat napping in the sun. Center,Top: Elder daughter. Center, Bottom: Mother preparing tea for us. Right Column: 1. Cave and walled corral where the animals are kept at night. 2.Aziz walking with the little boy toward the kitchen/den cave. 3. The blanket hanging at the doorway of the bedroom cave.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                        BACK TO MAP  PAGE