The hike to Thulakot at Kalikasthan Village, was on the top of a hillside on the eastern side of Begnas Lake.  Our goal was to reach the lone cherry tree, which stood in full bloom at the top of the hill. This tree shaded a diminutive temple known as Bhairab Temple, at a point only 30 kilometers/18 miles from Annapurna Mountain.  The Thulakot hike was a vertical climb 12 kilometers/7.4 miles long; however, the steep terrain was challenging enough to feel far more distant. The ascent wound through villages and farm lands, required some switchback trails,  and seemed far easier than the descent. Henry and I agreed that walking down was far harder than walking up; and, believe it or not, the stone stairway felt far more treacherous than the natural terrain. On top of this foothill to Annapurna, the view overlooking lakes and Pokhara Valley was stunning. As we sat on a stone wall overlooking the vista far below us, we ate a snack of roasted cashew nuts and big pieces of local cheese. Two Tibetan men appeared with their wares for sale, though  we maintained our policy of not accumulating “stuff”. While at the top, we learned the story behind a monument to Krissna Prassad Kunkel, a beloved social worker who had been struck by lightning in 1969, when he was helping to build the wall upon which we rested. This story served as a poignant reminder, and underscored our philosophy about living life to its fullest, because when your number’s up, its up! A field of marigolds filled the entire walled grounds on the peak, adjacent to Bhairab Temple that is the site of  an annual festival.  On our route to the top, as well as on our hike downward, we passed through many charming villages, with a chance to see wonderful villagers, animals and the lifestyles of the locals. Children were tending flocks of goats, women, men and children were carrying loads of rice and hay, often bigger and heavier than themselves.  For us urbanites and world travelers, perhaps the smartest thing I did on our route down, was ask our guide to call ahead to book massages for both Henry and me, a necessity to pull ourselves back together before dinner!  When we made it back to the lake, we walked across the dam to a boat awaiting us, then were silently paddled the length of the lake to the resort, a very pleasant end to a beautiful day!

PHOTOS: Left Column: 1. Our goal: a cherry tree shading the diminutive Bhairab Temple. 2. Landscape view on Thulakot hike. 3. Cattle grazing in the mountain pastures, passed on our climb. 4. Naibin, meditating while sitting on the stone wall under the cherry tree. 5. Henry, passing beside the traditional Nepali house, its sides rounded and its roof thatched. 6. Water lilies in Begnas Lake at the bottom of our descent. Center, Top: View overlooking the terraced farm lands around Begnas Lake. Center, Middle: View at the top: a stone house, a field of marigolds, and snowcapped Annapurna in the background at 8,078 meters/26,503 feet. Center, Bottom: Henry walking down the endless number of stone steps, difficult to negotiate.  Right Column: 1. Henry and Nabin, our guide,  during the ascent. 2. View of Begnas Lake, or Begnas Tal  from the top. 3. Dipang Laked or Dipang Tal as seen from the top. 4. Henry at the top. 5. Passing beside a steeply terraced field overlooking Begnas Lake. 6. Return to Begnas Lake Resort, ending at the dam, and being ferried by boat, our worn out legs and feet propped on sacks of rice.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                        BACK TO MAP  PAGE