Wat Phra* Chetuphon, known by it’s nickname, Wat Pho, is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok, dating from the 16th Century. It is located in the “Old City” at the center of the city, which is the most spiritual and historical area of Bangkok. “Wat Pho” is Thailand’s foremost center for education; it has a monastery attached. This was my first exposure to Thai temple architecture, and I was overwhelmed by the graceful forms of the architecture, principally revealed in the multi-layered roofs of the temple buildings, in the strong, abundant colors, and in the patterned decoration which abounds. Every surface seems to be covered in decorative tiles. Architectural detailing is often gold-colored. At this temple, the roof tiles, once imported from China, are brightly colored in red-orange and green. Every form has many layers, levels, and tiers. Spires of varying shapes reach heavenward. This temple was rebuilt and expanded by Thailand’s king, Rama I in the 1780’s. Amongst the figures within the grounds of Wat Phra Cheuphon are many Chinese sculptures, used as ballasts on Thai ships returning from China. Amongst these figures are two large gate guardians, Farang guards, thought to be Chinese depictions of Marco Polo. Each towering guard sports a western styled top hat on a head carved with a Chinese interpretation of European features. The  Phra Si Sanphet Chedi, stupa-like forms, which house sacred Buddha images, are covered in decorative tiles that are actually broken plates, imported Chinese porcelain.

*Note: - in Thai, ph is pronounced as a “p” not an “f” sound as in English.

PHOTOS: Upper Left: Building Rooflines at Wat Pho. Lower Left: Temple building and edge of a Phra Si Sanphet Chedi. Center: Young students returning to the monastery. Upper Right:  Roof of the Main Bot at Wat Pho. Lower Right: Details of the Phra Si Sanphet Chedi with their decorative tiles.

JOURDAN ARPELLE-ZIEGLER                                           BACK TO MAP PAGE